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How to wear, wear a kilt? Is it fashionable?


"True Scot" (English True Scotsman) - a satirical expression used in Scotland in relation to men wearing a kilt without underwear. Although the tradition of wearing a kilt without underwear arose in the army, it entered Scottish folklore as an expression of a frivolous attitude to customs or even as a manifestation of audacity.

Kilt Checks

The practice of wearing kilts without underwear arose when they became part of the Scottish military uniform, which led to the appearance in the English language of euphemisms such as “go regimental” (go regimental) and “military practice” (military practice), meaning wearing a kilt without underwear . On the western front during World War I, some senior sergeants tied a mirror to the end of a golf club or walking stick to check the kilts before the parade. In the 1950s, a soldier in kilts at the parade was to be checked by a senior sergeant using a mirror located on the floor of the barracks. In 1997, soldiers of the Black Guard Royal Battalion of Scotland were in the spotlight due to windy weather during a military ceremony in Hong Kong.

However, performers of the traditional Highland Scottish dance and participants in the Highland Games are required to dress modestly and decently in accordance with the rules of these competitions. In Highland dance competitions and out-of-competition performances, the rules of the Scottish Official Board of Highland Dancing (SOBHD) set limits on underwear: “Dark underwear should be worn under a kilt, but not white.” . Highlanders Games participants are also required to wear some shorts during the competition.

Kilt Checks

The term “true Scot” is most often used in connection with a kilt check, which sometimes happens as follows:

The kilt bearer is asked if he is a “true Scot.” He responds positively or negatively. In the case of a positive response, evidence may be requested, which may vary depending on the individual and the situation. In the case of a negative answer, his underwear may be confiscated.

Jennie Breeden, author of the web-based comic strip Devil's Panties, regularly uses the fan to check for the kilt she organizes for comic purposes.

Given the popularity of kilts among fantasy fans and participants in Renaissance festivals, kilt checks are widespread at costumed events. These checks have a certain ritual, since conducting a kilt check without permission can be regarded as sexual abuse or harassment.

Where is the kilt worn?

Most kilts are worn in Scotland. Some historians claim that he was also clothed by residents of Northern Ireland. In some former British colonies, it is still used by the military during parades or shows.

Initially, there was only a large kilt, but over time, a small one appeared as an alternative to the bulky ancestor. By the way, it was this element of the wardrobe that may have served as the idea for short skirts for women.

Do you wear swimming trunks under a kilt

According to the story, the Scots did not wear swimming trunks under a kilt. On the one hand, such a tradition has existed for five hundred years, while cowards appeared only 150 years ago. This could be one of the reasons. Today this issue is quite acute in the mountainous areas of the country. One of the former military spoke about the peculiarities of putting on a kilt of regiment. He said that men were forbidden to climb the stairs in public transport, but at the same time a military man who put on his underwear was sent back to the location where he should have been removed.

Not so long ago, a law was passed in the country that residents are required to wear underwear under a kilt. Many now disagree with this decision, as they consider it a deviation from tradition. Most put on a kilt underpants for comfort.

How to wear and wear a kilt

In the small kilt, the folds are located at the back and sides. A smooth part is formed in front, which is a couple of folded aprons. The main material used is wool.

A large kilt looks like a cape, picked up, as well as draped at the waist level of a man. It is also called tartan. The lower part is like a skirt, and the upper one is thrown over the left shoulder and is attached with a pin. Let's take a closer look how to wear a kilt.

The whole process includes several stages:

  • place all the matter on the floor, flatten it,
  • measure the width of your thigh, and attach this distance to one end of the coat (this section does not fold)
  • from a measured place, collect several folds so that at the other end of the material the same distance remains as at the original. The folds can be either wide or narrow,
  • place the belt (belt) under the fabric so that it is at the level of your waist. To do this, measure the distance from the floor to the hips. The buckle is placed on the right,
  • bend the aprons and lower them along the whole kilt (knees at the edge level),
  • Gently wrap the left side of the apron around the waist, then the right,
  • tighten the belt
  • Wrap the rest of the fabric around its axis and stick it in the belt (first the right, then the left)
  • Throw the hanging end at the back over the left shoulder and secure it with a pin (just below the shoulder).

As a result, we get a beautiful and bright kilt. The external design can be supplemented with various buckles or a handbag.

Is it fashionable to wear a kilt

Today, wearing a kilt can be considered fashionable. Firstly, this is a very unusual and unique element of clothing, as it is worn by a small number of people. Secondly, the pattern consists of cells of various colors. By the way, their sizes have a certain value. In ancient times, each clan had its own cell dimensions. Nowadays, kilts are worn by both men and women. Many celebrities at one time also experienced a weakness for this element of Scottish clothing.

Kilt for the Scots is not just a national dress, it is a whole story with its own symbolism and mythology. We see the influence of the traditional kilt everywhere: from school uniforms to catwalks and red carpet, but a real Scottish kilt is, of course, a delicate matter.

Now it would never occur to anyone to call a Scot in a kilt “a man in a skirt”. But earlier it was possible to catch a grin on their faces more than once at the sight of men in golf with bare legs. Some thought it was just a strange, long-obsolete item of men's wardrobe. And so the persecuted and ridiculed kilt first warmed the mountaineer, and then turned into a symbol of the Scottish identity.

The Scots even have a saying: "Kilt is called kilt, because a lot of people got killed, when they called it a skirt" ("Kilt is called a kilt because many people were killed when they called it a skirt").

It’s really hard to call a Kilt a skirt, as it’s just a piece of fabric wrapped around the waist, gathered in folds at the back, straight in front and fastened with buckles and straps. He is usually worn with a special bag - “sporran”, which just keeps the kilt from gusts of wind. And to the bottom corner a special pin is attached - kilt pin, but not to fasten the floors, but to make the material heavier.

The modern kilt, by and large, is the lower part of its ancestor - the "big plaid." The ancestor was much heavier and bulky, its length reached 9 yards (8 meters), and weight up to five kilograms. One part was gathered in folds and fastened with a wide belt, and the second could be thrown over your shoulders, covered your head or used as a bedspread at night.

In rainy and foggy Highland, in order to escape from the dank cold, trousers were uncomfortable, and the “large plaid” fit perfectly: it did not hinder movements, warmed, quickly dried up, did not tear, while climbing mountains, and it could be wrapped at night .

And in battle, the Scots could shock the enemy, easily dropping a kilt and rushing into battle, in which the mother gave birth.

In a real Scottish kilt, the main thing is details. By tradition, a kilt is made of woolen fabric with a special pattern of cells and stripes - tartan. Each clan of Scotland has its own tartan, it speaks of the nobility of its owner and its social status.

Only kings and descendants of kings could wear purple and blue. So, knowing this language, you can easily distinguish which of the McGregor clan and which of the Campbell clan. The fact is that fabric dyes were strictly limited to plants of the area where the clan lived.

There is a universal tartan "Caledonia" that every Scot can wear, regardless of clan.

To date, about 700 sets are known (the set of colored stripes that made up tartan), and this number continues to grow. Among other things, the number of colors used indicated the wearer's social status: one was a servant, and seven was a chapter.

The Scottish Tartans World Register contains more than 3,300 views of the tartan world register, and new species are no longer registered. In another register - Scottish Register of Tartans - for 2010 more than 6,000 types of tartans are listed and registration of new ones continues.

For example, the Burberry house created its own tartan in the 1920th year and entered in the register in 1985. And although women were very fond of clothes, including plaid skirts, a kilt is, of course, a purely male affair.

After the Jacobite revolt in 1746, the British authorities banned the wearing of any national tartan clothing, including kilt. The strict ban lasted for 36 years.

Kilt survived only thanks to the highland regiments of the British army, whose soldiers were officially equipped with plaids and other elements of national clothing.

In the British Army, as well as in the armies of some other countries of the British Commonwealth, the kilt is still part of the military uniform for shows and parades. The last time a kilt participated in battles in 1940. The Germans called the British infantry regiment Queens Own Cameron Highlanders very figuratively - "Lady from Hell."

"What to wear under a kilt" has always been a hot question. And, despite the fact that the tradition of wearing a kilt without underwear arose in the army, it is believed that a true Scot does not wear underwear under a kilt.

There is a legend that during a show of troops dressed in black watch kilts, Queen Victoria asked the Scottish grenadier: “Is it true that you have nothing under the kilt?” The Scotsman replied: "I assure you, Your Majesty, everything is there."

A member of the Conservative Party of Scotland, Jamie McGregor, who works on cultural issues, once declared: “The mystery of having a true Scotsman under the kilt is as much an integral part of our culture as the Loch Ness monster. The new rule will destroy all romance and mysticism. This is impossible, they have no right to do so. ”

During World War I, some senior sergeants tied a mirror to the end of a golf club or walking stick to check for kilts before the parade. In the 1950s, a soldier in kilts at the parade was to be checked by a senior sergeant using a mirror located on the floor of the barracks.

In 1997, soldiers of the Black Guard Royal Battalion of Scotland even came under the spotlight due to windy weather during a military ceremony in Hong Kong.

However, performers of the traditional Highland Scottish dance and participants in the Highland Games are required to wear underwear so as not to shock the audience: “Dark underwear should be worn under a kilt, but not white.”

Among the Scottish nobility and intelligentsia, the wearing of a kilt became popular only in the middle of the XIX century. And although today most Scots wear a kilt only on special occasions (a fairly small number of people wear it every day), it remains an invariable symbol of Scottish culture.

Do modern Scots wear a kilt?

Wear it! Firstly, the kilt still serves as a dress uniform for some parts of the British army. Secondly, a kilt is festive clothing for special occasions. Thirdly, kilts are popular among musicians and dancers, they are a form of waiters, sellers, guides, etc. Some Scots wear kilts in everyday life. In Edinburgh, I watched a wonderful picture: a company of rocker appearance saddled their motorcycles. Young people were in kilts, while the girl flaunted in leather pants.

Scottish bridal fashion requires a classic white dress from the bride and a costume with a kilt from the groom. My colleague-judge from Glasgow, who was married in this very cathedral from a photograph, told me that when they were preparing for the wedding, they thought about buying a kilt for the ceremony, but it turned out that a man’s suit with a kilt is more expensive than a wedding dress (in online stores I came across 650 pounds). So I had to rent a kilt.

To make the image in a kilt look finished, it is necessary to put on a belt and sporran. Special shoes with long laces and knee-highs will not interfere. The kilt needle is attached to the bottom of the apron to make the edge heavier. In the photo from the store you can see all the accessories, except for socks.

To wear a large kilt requires only a belt. And a brooch if you decide to fix the top of a large plaid on your shoulder.

What does a real Scot wear under a kilt?

You probably have heard that traditionally they don’t put on underwear under a kilt. If you think a little, it’s quite clear why. When they began to wear a large kilt in Scotland, a long shirt was considered underwear. Cowards have not yet been worn. Fashion for men's underpants came from Italy to the rest of Europe only at the end of the sixteenth century. It is unlikely that ordinary shepherds and soldiers followed fashion.

When the kilt became the official military uniform, then the coward was not included in it. The army does not tolerate freethinking, especially in a suit, so the soldiers were checked for the absence of this wardrobe item.

What does a modern man wear under a kilt? If he is a dancer or participant in the Scottish Games, then the regulation requires him to wear black lingerie. The rest can make their choice on the basis of hygiene, convenience or tradition.

Before asking this question to the kilt carrier, ask yourself: do you really want to know this?

Speaking of kilt, it is impossible not to talk about tartan. It is believed that the word "tartan (tartan)" comes from the French "tiretaine" and means a woolen cloth, i.e. refers to the fabric itself, and not to its drawing. Today, tartan is a familiar Scottish woman.

You must have heard something about clans and clan tartans. The colors and pattern of the tartan are almost of heraldic significance. This is actually a fashion, not a story. This tradition is about 200 years old. Tartan was made by hand, and each master tried to create a unique fabric based on the colors that were available to him. It is possible that in certain areas only certain colors were available, and certain patterns were popular, but nothing similar to modern clan tartans existed.

In the animated film "Brave", each of the clans was dressed in a tartan.

Initially, the mountaineers preferred dark natural colors, so that the kilt also served as a shelter: wrapped up and hid. Later, the kilt became not only casual clothes, but also festive. The surviving tartans of the 18th century have complex patterns and contain yellow, purple, gold, green, orange, red, blue and other bright colors. Often the Scots wore several tartans at the same time.

After the Jacobite revolt was suppressed, tartan, as a symbol of everything Scottish, was banned. The ban lasted 32 years. By this time, the clan system was completely destroyed.

The first standardized tartan was made by William Wilson, owner of the William Wilson & Son’s of Bannockburn weaving mill. On the mechanical looms of the factory, the same tartan pattern could be repeated endlessly and flawlessly. At first, Wilson gave numbers to the new patterns, and then the tartans began to be given names. Tartans were named after clans and localities.

The idea that each clan has its own tartan fits perfectly into the romantic moods of the 19th century. In the Victorian era, the concepts of “tradition” and “antiquity” strongly influenced the minds, and soon the tartan fashion spread throughout England. Every Briton of Scottish descent wanted to know the tartan of his clan. And away we go. Lists began to be compiled, books were written, and new traditions established. So clan tartans were born.

Today, there are about 7,000 official tartans, some of them two hundred years old, some two days. Not only the Scottish clans have their patterns, but also cities, educational institutions, companies, etc.

Which tartan to choose?

Short answer: any. Today there are no restrictions on the wearing of a particular tartan, other than your personal preferences. If you associate yourself with the McDougall clan, then choose any of the tartans under this name (and there are several, by the way!), Or you can create your own tartan that best suits your eyes or the color of the shoes.

Are there female kilts?

Килт — по определению мужская одежда, но мы же носим брюки, не правда ли? Сегодня в женской моде позволено все: от ультра-мини до макси. В туристических магазинах продают исключительно вариант мини, но никто не помешает вам выбрать подходящий тартан и сшить себе килт необходимой длины или юбку любого фасона. Если вы интересуетесь историческим костюмом, то это будет юбка в пол. Во времена, когда килт пришел в Шотландию и прочно обосновался там, дамы носили длинные юбки.