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Rear Axle Shaft Bearing Replacement

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uitsJust do not take offense. I see that you imagine what you are talking about, but in my opinion you have made a number of significant inaccuracies. Also, it may well be that I just don’t know something. In this case, I would be grateful for the proofs for verified sources of information. From what I know:
- when replacing GP bearings, contact spot adjustment will be required
- if GP wear is visually noticeable, then adjusting the contact spot will not help - GP replacement is required
- bearings are not identical. I don’t know what it depends on, but even the original Ford bearings (depending on the installation location it may be Timken, Koyo, FAG) are not the same. Because Contact spot adjustment is performed with washers having a pitch of 0.05 mm. this fact is significant
- there is no manual torque for shank nut tightening. All adjustments are made based on the parameters of the new / old bearings and the forces of rotation of the shank (a rather expensive tool will be required)
- There are no stands for adjusting bridges. Although, depending on what is called a stand.
- it is necessary to put a new spacer sleeve. If for the reasons of force majeure to put the old one, then be sure to put a 0.8-1.5 mm washer under it. The enclosed washer does not guarantee a constant interference in the connection, unlike the new sleeve.

scum, "Measure seven times." In terms of "advise"
- when replacing GP bearings, it will be rather strange not to replace differential bearings. Adjustments will also be required, in this case, bearing preload
- at 3.73 s LSD, the differential satellites are very susceptible to wear. You need to figure out in advance where to buy them, so as not to suspend the disassembled car for a month. You do not need to buy them in advance, it is likely that they will not be required
- the same applies to the finger (axis) of the satellites

to Avtolik: by no means - what insults can be here. And I do not think that you, as a specialist who is constantly engaged in the nature of your business, can repair American cars less than me. Indeed, for me now fussing with cars is just a hobby. I can only guess what difficulties services now have to face after the owners climbed dirty cars in their cars.
Inaccuracies were made intentionally, because loading the vehicle with unnecessary information is not necessary. Indeed, judging by his questions, he decided to engage in repairs on his own, without resorting to the help of specialists. Repair manuals are publicly available.
From what we all know, no, not so, let it be: to all those who at least once climbed with aggregate fingers into aggregates:
- when replacing bearings of the GP, spot adjustment is always required,
- if there is wear and tear, then replacement of gp is necessary,
- even the original bearings have slight deviations from the declared sizes (I remember giving it to the laboratory for interest - the difference was no more than a couple dozen - maybe of course it was just me so lucky - there were few bearings passing through me), what can I say about analogues from lesser known manufacturers . Usually a batch of bearings has strictly defined dimensions, the next one can easily differ. Why the geometrical sizes do not coincide among different manufacturers - it seems to me that this is connected with the standards of a particular manufacturer in a particular production. I’ll describe my position on spot adjustment on a twenty-year-old auto vehicle a little lower.
- there is no manual torque for shank nut tightening. There is only a fork with a moment with which we squeeze the spacer sleeve. After all, initially the shank nut is tightened with decent effort precisely thanks to the sleeve. We need to create a preload up to a certain resistance before turning the shank. Later, if necessary, remove the backlash, such an effort is no longer required so as not to deform the sleeve. Otherwise, a complete disassembly, a new sleeve, and the whole procedure again. The TS will do all this on the knee - the procedure is simple.
- There are no stands for adjusting bridges. I apologize, I did not want to mislead anyone. It’s just a habit to call the stand a conductor with an installed unit. I’ll try to correct myself, although it’s probably too late - an established habit.
- Always put in a new spacer sleeve. I’ll describe my position on why the vehicle can’t put an extra washer if it leaves the old spacer sleeve a little lower.

Useful advice. All the time I forget about such moments. After all, when you change a part, be sure to check the neighboring nodes - it's silly not to look. True, you have already worked it out to automaticity and therefore you do not notice that others may need to focus on this.
If there is a possibility, it is possible of course to preventively change it, but if the car is used for civilian use, it will be quite enough to estimate wear, and if normal, it is quite possible to delay the replacement. The operating hours of the vehicle are not limited, so it will be completely safe to repeat this procedure in a year or two, at the same time training.

Everything described above is true - we haven’t made a mistake anywhere. After all, any specialist involved in the repair of a unit / assembly needs to fulfill its warranty obligations - and this is not only a material component.
In this particular case, the vehicle decided to do the repair on its own. We won’t be able to dissuade him from this. Therefore, our task is to minimize its material losses.
I’ll explain my thought: the TS is already mentally ready to buy a used bridge (without thinking about what condition it will be in, and how it will check it, it’s also not clear from its posts above). Naturally, you can give the car to the officers, but, as I understand it, in Kolomna, its 1995 Ford Explorer 2 will not be taken for maintenance in offservice. If you give it to any other service center, then as I understand it, you need to be very confident in this service so that you don’t regret what you’ve done (although, if he wanted to give it away, he would not ask a question on the forum about replacing the bearing). So no options.
Instead, I suggested that he get by with a minimum amount of salary, plus his work. Several times I focused his attention on the need to check the GP, after opening the back cover - I'm sure he will do it. If he hadn’t managed to kill her yet (surely, after hearing a rumble in the rear axle, he transferred to another car, and this was a joke), then having assembled the bridge with new bearings and adjusting the preload, he will be able to get into 99.9% of previous spot. And quite calmly she will be able to leave another hundred thousand, maybe much more.
If he managed to kill the GP, he will either just close the lid and drive as much as he can, or change the bearings and all his work on replacing the bearings will simply prolong the agony of the rear axle, but even so he will be able to ride 10-20-30 thousand with a buzzing bridge . And then he will buy, as he intended, a used bridge. Only now, his purchase will be a deliberate and balanced decision, because he will possess the necessary knowledge.
That is why my way of solving this problem seems to me optimal and less costly for the vehicle.

to scum: I'm sorry that I spoke about you in the third person above - this is by no means from disrespect.
In fact, do not listen to any of us when you know a few opinions - just take note of them - nothing more. And about the repair - do as you see fit due to your knowledge / skills. Any repair, implies, in addition to the desire to climb somewhere with their dirty hands, also the presence of a large amount of free time. Actually, when doing some kind of work, you need to keep in mind the following (although this is understandable, but still, just in case): “Everything you do with your car, you do at your own peril and risk. Claims are not accepted. ”
Personally, I like to mess with this car, only here is less and less free time every year.
Naturally, it wouldn’t occur to me to get into a Kruzak, which is off-dealer’s guarantee, but I love climbing in a twenty-year-old car with my dirty little hands, and I do it with great pleasure.
Knock on the PM, I'll give you my coordinates, if you are going to do it yourself and urgent questions arise, we will phone.

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